Amidst the myriad microtrends that have surged in recent seasons, propelled by TikTok and an explanatory media landscape, a prevailing theme emerges: hyper-femininity reigns supreme. Initially, Barbiecore plunged into our consciousness with its vibrant hot-pink allure, swiftly followed by its counterpart, bimbocore. Subsequently, a plethora of sweet, innocent, girlish motifs flooded the scene, ranging from the charming coquette adorned with ribbons and bows strutting down the runway to the pastel-hued essentials of balletcore. And who could overlook the “clean girl” and her array of food-inspired influences, spanning from blueberry milk nails to strawberry-infused makeup?
©GRAMERCYPICTURES/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION Jennifer Tilly in Bound.
According to TikTok’s narrative, it seems all these trends are on a collision course with oblivion. The app’s newest pet style archetype inherits the high-femme, almost theatrical DNA of its forerunners, but with a twist—it’s far from innocent. The jaded “mob wife” persona has long been a cinematic staple, originating as the moll of a gangster in movies like The Killers and White Heat. With a tough demeanor and a gritty appearance, she’s weathered life’s storms and wears her experiences like battle scars. Whether we embrace it or not, there’s an undeniable allure in her proximity to the underworld.
©COLUMBIA PICTURES/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION Jennifer Lawrence in American Hustle.
Kayla Trivieri, a TikTok creator, ignited a trend by proclaiming the end of the “clean girl” aesthetic and the rise of the “mob wife” aesthetic. (“Carmela Soprano paved the way for you all,” she remarked.) The 25th anniversary of The Sopranos has sparked a renaissance of the series and its multifaceted female characters, along with their distinctive style. However, this aesthetic transcends the show; it represents a comprehensive rejection of previous norms. The quintessence of mob wife style is excess, whether it’s draped in fur, flaunting voluminous hair, treating cheetah print as a staple, or embracing the antithesis of minimalistic makeup.
©UNIVERSAL/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface.
“Understated luxury” isn’t part of her lexicon, but luxury certainly is. Her wealth is anything but discreet. Take Sharon Stone’s Ginger in Casino, who slowly unravels in outfits like Pucci lounge pajamas and a vibrant Courrèges set, accented with lavish jewelry. Or consider Michelle Pfeiffer’s Elvira in Scarface, donning oversized sunglasses and silky slipdresses. In House of Gucci, Lady Gaga’s character navigates schemes in, naturally, Gucci attire, while Jennifer Lawrence’s character in American Hustle flaunts towering hairdos and form-fitting Halston-inspired gowns. An unsung icon is Jennifer Tilly’s mob girlfriend in the Wachowskis’ Sapphic thriller Bound, whose bold red lips, sleek dresses, and Chanel Vamp nails command attention. In a sense, it’s the ideal aesthetic for a downturn: why not showcase everything you have while you still can?
SUNSET BOULEVARD//GETTY IMAGES Sharon Stone in Casino.
There’s a palpable allure in exploring a bygone era: its remoteness adds to its charm. Each of the films and shows mentioned either belongs to earlier eras or portrays them as period pieces. Fashion has a penchant for romanticizing fading archetypes, whether it’s the rugged aesthetics of roll-up-your-sleeves workwear, the sophistication of office attire, or the timeless elegance of the “coastal grandmother.”
FABIO LOVINO/MGM Lady Gaga in House of Gucci.
The facade of effortless style (and, in the case of the clean girl, a forced sense of blandness) is giving way to a meticulously crafted self, akin to an architectural masterpiece. The mob wife, weathered by life’s challenges, embraces her resilience without reservation. While the minimalist aesthetic may still hold sway on the runways, at least for the time being, I know whose company I’d prefer over a martini.